원정 개요

BC at 5150m south of mountain northeast of point 6150m
ABC at 5500m north of BC just before glacier
C1 at 6000m just before South Face
C2 at 6500m top of East Ridge.

Mountain can be seen only from point above BC. Very poor water supply and takes time to fetch small amount available daily. Had to fix 1200m: 200m to C1, C1 to C2 on face 700m and 300m C2 to top. 18th summit party fixed rope above C2 so other members could reach summit. Most technical part between C1 and C2: averge 50 degrees and up to 80-85 degrees in small parts but snow was safe and had very nice weather until 19th when became very windy. Route is actually rather complex because of surrounding peaks.

Marcaud thinks the summit of Ratna Chuli is actually further east along that Tibetan border, than is shown on HMG (Dept of Surveys) map, or his team and Autumn 2002 French team climbed a different peak.