원정 개요

BC at bottom of South Face
C1 at 5800m Kangri Shar Glacier on west side of Pumori
High point at 6400m at C2.

First acclimatization on Island Peak just above BC. C1 on glacier 500m west of face because too dangerous from avalanche at bottom of face (avalanche from big serac which route went around). Fixed rope from serac to C2 for Sherpa to come up with C2 gear and descend; fixed 200m just before and around serac and 400m above serac to C2. Then down to BC for rest on 15th to C2 19th and that night big wind blew up and sirdar decided to go down to BC and climb finished because of wind and snow conditions not good for ski descent, the purpose of this climb between 14 and 18 Oct. Weather changed with temperature drop and wind strong, so now good snow on face became frozen and transformed into 30 cms high pinnacles all over face.

Casartelli came with Bernard only as film-maker and climbed only to 5680m at start of SW Ridge advantage point from which to photograph Bernard climbing.