원정 개요

BC at 5350m on lake side below Kalapattar (normal SE Face site)
C1 at 6160m on SW Ridge
C2 at 6450m on SW Ridge

First acclimatization on Island Peak. From Pumori BC followed lateral moraine westward to snow and ice head wall which started at 5600m; 60 degrees most at steepest part, 30 degrees least steep, at top 70 degrees. Reached SW Ridge from top of head wall. Many ice seracs and mushrooms; to avoid two big towers, traversed from 6200m onto South Face up to 100m below ridge. 5 Nov Ricci and Maselko (the only members to go to C2) left C2 for summit; on 4th had fixed 200m of rope above C2 went up these ropes and then tried to continue up ridge but at 6700m snow conditions (unconsolidated sugary snow) too dangerous to continue (and very difficult to downclimb it), so stopped and told others to return to C1 and climb finished.

Cook boy had gone ahead to Pumori BC before BC before team arrived from Island Peak. He was carried down to Lobuche by Canadian expedition.