원정 개요

BC at 5400m "British camp" below and before base of Chago Glacier
C1 at 6100m right side of glacier
C2 at 6400m from left side of glacier
C3 at 7400m Makalu La
High point at northeast side of ridge from Makalu La.

Met Maoists at Sedua on trek to BC: politely requested Rs 5000 per memberm Rs 500 for cook and Rs 50 for each party; Swiss paid for themselves and sirdar paid for Nepalese staff.

Left C2 26 Sept with small tent (all members except) and got to Makalu La at 4:00 and 5:00 pm and set up tent; had planned to get to Makalu La at 2:00 pm rest in tent there 4 hours and then go for top from 6:00 pm but lot of snow made trail-breaking too slow so it was that night. 27 Sept Jordan and Schliefsteiner up from C3 at 6:00 pm for top while others had gone down to C2; at 7:00 pm at 7500m first slab avalanche came down (1st warning we had) and at 10:30 pm at 7800m big and little avalanche came down on them from above. Jordan heard it coming, shouted to leader and both ran to correct direction and only a small avalanche hit them and carried them down to 40m but not injured: now decided to rest to C3 for night 28 Sept to BC. With weather continuing to be bad, did not go up again through Schliefsteiner did want to try again, but no others did.

Devrient got only to 5800m - weak from diarrhea and then cerebral edema.