원정 개요

BC at 5200m at Lhotse Shar Glacier
C1 at 5700m South Face east of SE Ridge slightly (20m)
C2 at 6200m same
C3 at 6600m same
C4 at 7700m same
xxx at 8250m few meters below East Ridge.

Route from C4 to top: joined East Ridge to get to summit (no C5). Summit team left C3 at 5:00 am, all day fixing rope to C4 on 4 Oct and arrived C4 8:30 pm in moonlight (without headlamps). 5 Oct 5:00 am from C4 went for top. Got to East Ridge 9:00 am. At 8100m small peak at 10:30 am; beyond 3 pinnacles on knife ridge with small cornices over south side; dangerous to climb over pinnacles so climbed few metres below ridge across South Face. At 8250m Hwang in lead going up fresh snow which avalanched with him and also took down Park Joon-Hoon who had been belaying Hwang and also fell because of force of Hwang fall. Both fell down South Face 2900m to glacier ata 5300m and bodies not found. From small peak so dangerous that 90-100 degrees to climb here; will die from cornices breaking and ice overhanging.

Summit team: Um, Hong, Hwang, Park Joo-Hoon and Pasang Gelu Sherpa (who summited Everest 21 May 2003 with Um).