원정 개요

BC at 4800m last grass south of Hinku valley to Tengma village, north to Hinku Glacier
C1 at 5100m junction of Hinku Nuptse and Kangtega Glaciers
High point on East Face.

Baker and Groom first attempted South Buttress of Kusum Kanguru and reached 5600m; cold for Groom (new boots "not working") and Baker down with him. Because of that, climb was too technical to move fast enough to keep warm.

On Kangtega got only 4-1/2 hours direct sunlight at C1 because of the narrow valley. From BC north up Himla Glacier. From C1 on 3 Dec Baker, Castel and Groom attempted to establish C2 at 5500m on East Face, but at 5400m snow up to their waist and saw signs of avalanches high on the face, so decided not safe higher and retreated to C1. Other 3 members turned back below 5400m at different places because of the deep snow. On 4th and 5th cleared all equipment and went to BC. On 5th and 6th had all equipment back in BC.

From BC all went to Mera. Baker, Castel and Groom summited Mera on 8 Dec and all left BC on 10th.