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Russian Jannu Expedition 2003

Jannu · 2003 · 가을 (3) · Russia

원정 개요

BC at 4600m on north side of glacier
C1 at 5600m on rock ledge
C2 at 6500m in snow cave
xxx at 7200m on North Face (90-90 degrees steep).

17th Sept was accident: Mikhailov injured by falling ice on his head, chest and hips with broken ribs and hip bone just above C1 and was helicoptered to KTM.

Fixed ropes from bergschrund above C1 to 7200m, and from glacier to C1 (19x50m), and 28 more 50m ropes above C1. Stopped climb at 7200m because of bad weather; snowfall was strong and very cold and impossible to climb without mittens. Route was direct route up center of North Face to summit.

Expedition was not bothered by Maoists, but Russians moved very fast through Maoist area above Taplejung.

  • 내부 원정 ID4494
  • 원본 EXPIDJANU03301
  • 대장Alexander Odintsov
  • 루트 (Route)N Face direct
  • 최고 도달고도7200m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 9명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Alexander OdintsovRussiaLeader---
Mikhail BakinRussiaExp Doctor---
Alexei BolotovRussiaClimber---
Mikhail DavyRussiaClimber---
Mikhail MikhailovKyrgyz RepublicClimber---
Mikhail PershinRussiaClimber---
Alexander RuchkinRussiaClimber---
Ivan SamoilenkoRussiaCameraman---
Nikolai TotmyaninRussiaClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Griffin, Lindsay · 2003 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 2003 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200441103/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Himal-Jannu-Attempt-on-Direct-North-Face · 2003 · 웹사이트 (5) ·