원정 개요

BC at 4770m at Punzi glacier Pt 4800m on Himlung glacier
C1 at 5450m top of steep moraine
C2 at 6250m South Face of West Ridge
C3 at 6300m South Face of West Ridge

22nd Nov left C3 7:15 am: all summiters and 3 Sherpas in summit bid. Leader turned 6820m (was too cold and lack of energy) alone and back to C3. At 7000m Dawa Pasang Tamang turned back because of respiration problem. Summiters on top at 3:30 pm in strong winds as approached summit and had to hold ice axes in snow to prevent being blown over. Left top at 3:45 and Ally got snowblind just below top, so Sandu stayed with him: Ally fell 3 times, lost one glove. Just after dark (6:30 pm) others down to C3, got head lamps and later to be taken up to Ally by Man Bahadur Tamang and got to C3 at 11:00 pm. Ally frostbitten nose (not serious), 1 ear (not serious), 8 fingers and 10 toes (badly frostbitten) and snowblind (stayed blind for 3 days); needed the 2 Nepalese (Sandu and Man Bahadur) to be able to get Ally down to BC on 23rd Nov at 7:15 pm because summit Belgiums too exhausted to do this; cook boy carried Ally on his back part way down from C1. Ally evacuated by helicopter from BC on 25th.

Not extremely difficult technically but some technical parts: but C1, C2 and C3 to top. C1 to C2 is very long route steep snow and ice. C3 to top steep also and snow and ice on very narrow ridge with cornice over soft side as we ascended it.

Five members did not reach C2:
Adriaenssens to C1 only - no motivation to go higher.
D'Hondt to C1 only but spent most of the time in BC with stomach & respiratory
problems.
Graveel to 6000m then down with tooth infection.
Mathijs to C1, then down with altitude sickness.
Verboven to C1, but most of the time in BC with stomach problem.