원정 개요

BC at bottom of of Khumbu Icefall
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at 6400m in Western Cwm
High point at 8150-8200m at 20m above bivouac.

C2 tents broken by wind and new camp 50m lower than original 6400m on 10th April and C3 broken twice before 26th April and problem to make space for camp with no snow on bare rock. These problems consumed much time. Fixed 1200m of fixed rope to C4 but none above (and used old ropes found in place; C2 to C3 entirely new; above C3 some Polish, etc. rope).

On 20th May summit bid attempted by Tamayo and San Sebastian, made biv at 8200m and stayed 2 nights waiting for high up winds to drop and De Stefani to finish filming and bring food. Also being affected by altitude and needed help to go down from C4, which reached 22 May very tired and confused. 2nd summit party [Portilla and Trabado] had to turn down to help them instead of trying for top.

Again summit bid on 27th May by Portilla and Trabado who went to C4 but very strong winds turned them back and did not sleep there (down to BC same day).

By now only 2 men on mountain, Sherpas moving down and only 5 members in BC only.

Parachute not used - too much wind.