원정 개요

BC at 4550m grass east of Phugaon and northwest of summit
C1 at 4850m grass
C2 at 5440m on glacier below NW Ridge on snow
C3 at 5850m on glacier below NW Ridge snow covered.

26-27 Oct night heavy snowfall and had to stay in C3 one more night and on 28th down to BC Arrive BC 6:00 pm. Much new snow and no more time to wait for good snow conditions and then reach summit. Plan was to climb to col between NW and West Ridge and then to summit via West Ridge. All in BC 28th.

J. Rados Senior developed cerebral edema in his descent from C1 to BC, but at lower altitude recovered; Dolezal had angina problem in C1, but Ok in BC; both men left BC with team.

Fixed rope used 60m at about 5600m.