원정 개요

BC at 5350m at bottom of Khumbu Icefall
C1 at 6050m at top of Icefall
C2 at 6400m in Western Cwm left side at bottom of SW Face
C3 at 6900m at same as Bonington C4 in 1975
C4 at 7200m at same as " C4 in 1975
C5 at 7950m at 2 pitches higher than Bonington 1972
C6 at 8200m at last camp of Bonington 1972
High point on face.

In BC decided to climb only one route because many members sick and it was extremely important to have success for one. Galfy in politics of Czechoslovak sports and 4 members authorized for alpine-style ascent on Bonington 1975 route (reached only 7900m). Main group climbed mostly on Bonington 1972 route (except in between C4 and C5 to right of great gully) and reached 8250m.

At end of May, 1 member alone to S Col to try to get someone to top but terrible winds drove him back. 3 others went to S Pillar and slept in Spaniards' C4.

By all routes it was wind that drove would be summiters back. In addition climbers in C6 were exhausted from long time at high altitude without O2 and no Sherpa support. Only one Sherpa went as far as C2 while others went home early; in last week of May, members started leaving BC to go to KTM with only 4 left on 30 May, because of transport problem.

4 members who attempted alpine-style ascent via 1975 route were the only ones who had been to 8000m summits before: Becik, Bozik, Rokancaj and Stejskal.