원정 개요

On 25 Sept tried from C2 for top with Shiroba, but toes freezing from wet socks at yellow band at about 7500m so turned back to C2 to sleep and ABC ON 26th.

2nd attempt to reach summit on 3 Oct alone; blue sky above and snow blowing at lower altitude but as he left C3 at 5:00 for top, not blowing above him but he moved slowly and wind came up at 6:00 pm NST, sun was setting and he stopped at 8100m. Dug snow cave for shelter and went to sleep; forgot to put on his extra pair of mittens and at 3:00 am wake up with very cold hands and decided to save his hands by going down (feet seemed okay then). Returned to C3 on 4 Oct and his climb was finished because now he knew his toes were frozen.

He is a Seventh Day Adventist and did not climb on Saturdays, his Sabbath; just rested in his tent and read his Bible.