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Korean Winter Everest Expedition (S Col Route)

Everest · 1986 · 겨울 (4) · S Korea

원정 개요

BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall (then down to Lobuche)
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col
High point at South Col.

Could make fast progress with Heo who has high altitude experience. 8th Dec planned for summit but wind too strong; descended to BC because of Ang Tshering's frostbite. On 19th Dec Heo and Sungdare started up for next attack. 2 nights at S Col (21-22nd Dec) but wind very strong and no oxygen left at S Col so 23rd Dec again descended and arrived BC at night. All left BC 25th Dec according to plan because Oh's experience with Everest 2 years ago was that weather on Everest in January is very bad and all climbers' condition deteriorates.


J B Singh - 8 June
Adventure Nepal

Singh does not remember case of Ang Tshering but does remember expedition sirdar [Pasang Norbu] didn't get all his salary (and Singh didn't get full pay for trekking group). 2-3 years later, Korean leader (Oh) was seen in KTM; sirdar and Singh went to Oh and demanded payment. Sirdar given equipment to sell.

Maybe unhappy while insurance claim unsettled
Expedition said no funds
Trust paid Rs 15,000

Was with Korean winter 1986 (Dec 1986), frostbite


Kami Temba - 6 June

Dr. Baskota amputated [for Ang Tshering's injuries]
All salary received, most but maybe not all - very difficult
In Khunde complained about salary, but on return from KTM no complaints, no Korean.


Sonam Gyalzen - 8 May

Pasang Norbu, sirdar (Namche)
Korean Everest 6-7 years ago
Was Ang Tshering's expedition when frostbitten

Received salary and insurance but nothing from expedition for frostbite.
Is in Thami: farmer, yakman and porter but unable to climb - only 30-35 years.

Put insurance money in savings account and comes to KTM occasionally to collect interest.

  • 내부 원정 ID446
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER86401
  • 대장Oh In-Hwan
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8000m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 9명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
In-Hwan OhS KoreaLeader---
Sook HanS KoreaClimber---
Jong-Haeng HeoS KoreaClimber---
Young-Ho HeoS KoreaClimber-사용-
Sang-Man LeeS KoreaClimber---
Ki-Tak NamS KoreaClimber---
Ang Tshering SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-
Pasang Norbu/Nurbu SherpaNepalSirdar-사용-
Sungdare SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

출처·참고문헌

Guha, Kamal K. · 1986 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723501/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Winter-Attempt · 1986 · 웹사이트 (5) ·