원정 개요

BC at usual site
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at bottom of SW Face
C3 not made, not necessary
C4 on face
C6 not occupied
High point at C6 site.

Summit attack scheduled for first days of Feb. Had 10 days continuous clear weather and little wind, also little snow which meant much rockfall. Used Korean box tents in C4, C5 and C6. Fatal accident made other Sherpas very much afraid of difficult route between C5 and C6 and not willing to continue supplying highest camps. High climb difficult with no snowfall.

Tsuttin Dorje, 21 years old, fell while carrying load from C4 and C5 with Ang Nima in apparent incorrect jummar; fell 1000m and body not found. Sungdare and Lhakpa Norbu hit by falling rock while sleeping in C4 20 Jan and 23 Jan while descending to C3 but both now Ok. One other Sherpa, Tendi, went home after altitude sickness became serious. Nam stayed C2 long time with leg pains.