원정 개요

BC at usual site
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 on Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col
High point at South Summit.

25th Sept summit bid by Graf, Koenig, Naar, Chuldim Dorje from C4; Naar to 8300-8400m without oxygen, then turned back exhausted; other 3 using O2 reached S Summit, turned back in waist-deep powder snow at 4:30 pm and returned to C4 that evening.

26th to C4 Weber, Burkhardt, Monnart for summit bid accompanied by 2 [Sherpas] to Col only. 27th, 3 men tried for summit to 8650m; 28th Burkhardt killed by avalanche (while descending Lhotse Face) while other 3 down to C2.

4 Oct Graf, Naar, Burgess, Koenig, B. Muller and his wife from BC to C2, but snowstorm sent them back to BC 5 Oct.

13th Oct Graf, Naar and Burgess up from BC, Graf to C3, other 2 stopped at C2. Back to C2 on 14th Oct because of wind and new snowfall.

BC evacuated at 17th Oct by prearrangement the yaks, so Graf must go to BC and others see no chance of Everest success.


Naar - 19 Oct 1986

Naar to 8600m with Graf, Koenig and Sherpa on 25th Sept (other 3 to South Summit). 27th Sept to 8600m - 3 Swiss Weber, Burkhardt, Monerat; Escoffier behind them.

6 Oct to C2 only
13 " Graf and Naar to about 7500m, back because wind
14 " Escoffier and Beghin to 7500m, worse wind


Zehnder - 15 Oct 1986

Graf, Koenig, Naar and Chuldim Sherpa (21) tried for summit about 24 Sept. Naar to 8450m and feared frostbite and down. Other 3 to South Summit and back because too late (4:00 pm) and much deep snow. Had been very quick at first but deep snow when reached ridge.

Burkhardt, Weber, Monnerat (and Escoffier) on 27th to 8500-8600m and turned back because deep snow and late and oxygen finishing. Escoffier not breaking trail at all and down to C3 same day.

28th others left C4 Col and had week avalanches crossing yellow band. Burkhardt hit by bigger avalanche between band and C3 (C3 in seracs towards right of face at about 7300m). Then heavy snowfall and no more summit attempts. 5 Oct up to C2 and down again when snowfall resumed.

4 Oct worked on Icefall route and Sherpa killed by serac collapse which sent him into crevasse.

Still hoping for Everest summit:
Graf
Burgess
Koenig
Bernard Muller
Lawrence de la Ferriere
Naar
Uranga (Raul)

Leave BC about 18 Oct = end of expedition
No attempt for Lhotse summit at all
Chances of success after 1st of Oct very small. Graf has same frostbite.


Accident of Dr. Simon Burkhardt/Switzerland

27/9/86 - 3 members climbed to the South Ridge at Everest south wall,
and turned at an altitude of 8650m at 1200 hours and then they
climbed back to camp 4, where they slept a second night on 8000m.

28/9/86 - Because of fog and storm, the 3 members started at
0900 direction
1000 they reached 6- SP made fotos and the weather was very
good and windy.
1100 the first which climbed down direction of Yellow Band was
Raymond Monnerat, 44, followed by Peter Weber, 44, an
architect, both from Switzerland, the third was Dr. Simon
Burkhardt. At this time a big powder avalanche from the
Lhotse couloir overspoiled Peter and Raymond. They
survived this avalance and continued the way to the C3.
1115 Raymond and Peter reached C3 by running for their life.
1130 Simon was at that time at the Yellow Band and crossed the
last few meters under the Lhotse wall to C3. A first powder
avalanche covered him, but he could go on.
1145 avalanche killed him. He was hanging in the fixed rope.
His neck was hit by a ice piece.
1500 the 2 members with 5 other from C3 went to C2 where 6
Sherpas were waiting them.

29/9/86 - Celebration at the BC for Simon