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French Expedition Annapurna IV

Annapurna IV · 2003 · 가을 (3) · Czech Republic

원정 개요

BC at meadow snowfall by glacier north-northwest of summit
C1 at glacier field below SW Face
C2 at start of SW Face
High point at SW Face.

Doudlebsky and Lienerth attempted West Ridge but after 7 pitches found rock very rotten slabs and no protection, so abandoned route after a day of climbing and back to BC. Other plan was to ascend ramp north of summit but too many avalanches of seracs to try ramp at all.

So went around to SW face and reached 6400m but found ice surface had running water under it on rock underneath. Wile Blaza and Hnojna were in C2 early morning of 12 Oct big avalanche of rock and some ice came down over their heads and took away route down to C1, so decided to abandon climb and go to BC clearing mountain as went down. Had fixed 850m between C2 and high point.

Weather was perfect, but water running because warm weather, constant avalanching all along southern side of horse shoe of Macchapuchare, Annapurna II and Annapurna IV.

  • 내부 원정 ID4429
  • 원본 EXPIDANN403301
  • 대장Radek Lienerth
  • 루트 (Route)W Pillar/Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6400m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Radek LienerthCzech RepublicLeader---
Petr HnojnaCzech RepublicDeputy Leader---
Marek BlazaCzech RepublicClimber---
Jan DoudlebskyCzech RepublicClimber---
Jiri HanzalCzech RepublicClimber---
Miroslav NovotnyCzech RepublicExp Doctor---
Vaclav PatekCzech RepublicClimber---
Dusan PokornyCanadaClimber---

출처·참고문헌

· 2003 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH