원정 개요

BC at 4000m East Annapurna Glacier
ABC at 5495m moraine just before icefall
Biv 1 at 5500m top of "nose"
Biv 2 at 6000m another serac of SW Ridge
Biv 3 at 6250m on SW Ridge
Biv 4 at 6500m snowhole SW Ridge
Biv 5 at 6650m small ledge
Biv 6 at 7000m at huge cave in snow crevasse on SW Ridge.

Just above ABC had to "run" under dangerous icefall, which was very active releasing ice a dozen times a day ("it was scary"), then up a rock "nose" on top of which pitched Biv 1 (pitched a lot of bivs because of no fixed rope). Had one tent with them above ABC in alpine style climb. Poor quality rocks - middle section moderately steep snow and ice (6000-6500m biv) quite poor snow quality (granular snow). Above 6500m-6700m steep loose rock and some vertical ice. From 6700m to top knife-edge ridge to 7000m and above easy climb on snow to top. On top at 12:30 pm on 6th and slept at biv 6. 7th slept in Biv 2, BC 8th very late (8:00 pm after dark but full moonlight). On last bit on way up and down were crouching in strong wind gusts and very cold.