원정 개요

BC at west side of South Annapurna Glacier
C3 at 6950m in big crevasse
High point at 7500m at top of rock wall.

Spent last half of Sept fixing 1000m rope from 5500m to C2 at 6130m high at point 7500m reached at 1:30 pm and no more rope for couloir above, so down to BC. 20 Oct back up to C2 direct and 21 and 22 Oct to C3 and 22nd Oct 1st group were two Sherpas (both named Dawa) to 7300m "flat iron" and back to C3 because of wind. Waited for members in 2nd group; now very very cold and winds broke one tent on edge of crevasse so decided to abandon climb in very cold weather on vertical wall; 2nd group was Camandona, Farina, Gontier and Kuntner. From C2 to C3 this team climbed in couloir to left of ridge; British in 1970 climbed ridge which now impossible because of ice mushroom. If had been able to start climb one week earlier, could have reached summit but nearly part of time after arriving at BC some of snow every day. One difficult section was 50m high serac of 80-90 degrees from 6800m to 6850m.