원정 개요

Acclimatized first on Kalapattar.

Used 4 Sherpas to carry loads on trail to C1 only. In evacuating no members brought down gear from C1 to 5600m because Sherpas said too dangerous after heavy snowfall 23-24 Jan covered boulders.

20 Jan summiters followed same pattern 1 day later. Glebov went to C3 but throat problem kept him from going on to top. Had planned to have no fixed ropes and camps and spend only 3 nights, but Dobsinsky was not strong enough climber for this style of climbing and so had to revert to classical style.