원정 개요

Cleared mountain of 2-3 kg of old rope and fixed new rope from C1 to top. New ropes fixed by this expedition, Mexicans, Amical Sherpa DAV; Scott Gould also helped; prompted by Robert Rackl's fatal fall because of faulty rope.

Reilly, Naderi, Samson, Lhakpa and Tenzing (Makalu) left C3 24 Oct for top, stopped 50m below top because of strong wind 60 knots/hr; wind driven snow, no visibility (more on hands and knees) and back to C3; snowed for 3 continously days; climb finished.

Summiters on 20th reached top after Germans; on 21st were only people on that day; on 22nd were the first on top, ahead of Mexican expedition; on 23rd Singleton was on top at 11:00 and others after him.

Sherpas:
Shera - Ama Dablam X3
Pasang Norbu Lama, Everest X3, from Makalu Barun
Gyalu - Ama Dablam X3
Tenzing from Okhaldhunga
Miss Maya, 23, Okhaldhunga (this her first mountains and not competent climber)

Departure early and health problems:
Burgess suffered deep rope burn at about 5600m on 17 Oct and left expedition;
Morris left with Burgess, his client;
Strehlow got flu and left 20 Oct (reached C1 only);
Garrington got cerebral edema, reached ABC only and left expedition 18 Oct;
Morris left with Burgess, his client;
Purchase reached ABC only (was pregnant), left 17 Oct;
Rolfson sprained his ankle descending from C1 to BC on 19 Oct but went up
later to C3 and on team's trek out from BC his ankle collapsed at
Phakding and he rode a horse to Lukla;
Tranter was mildly sick with stomach trouble, had cold, chest infection
and went to C1 only.