원정 개요

Left C3 for top at 10:00 am, delayed by strong winds before that winds abated enough to permit climb and very windy mostly final day's climb but not bad on top. On return to C3 at 4:30 pm found 2 tents unusable from the wind tears so down to C2 by Hunter and both Sherpas at 8:30 pm. Morton and Jacobus suffering from retinal hemorrhage which developed in one eye during descent and left that eye with almost no vision, came down slowly and had to biv at 6200m in sleeping bags cleared from C3; biv at 6:30 pm, in spot just below SW Ridge on its east side, protected from wind. Jacobus's vision greatly improved in 24 hours but not fully till arrived KTM 6 Dec.

Zinck had left BC on 26 Nov; had gone up to 5400m only and left because not acclimatizing.

Summit Sherpas: both from Thami, both scaled Ev 7 times and Kami Rita known as "Topke" also summited Cho Oyu once.