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Low BC at high point
ABC just below Changtse Ridge on Main Rongbuk Glacier
Biv in snow cave below Hornbein Couloir [at 7800m in ascent]
Biv in snow cave [at 8200m in descent].

Troillet had wanted to do solo ascent of Hornbein Couloir and Loretan and Beghin wanted to climb Great Couloir, but heavy snowfall in Aug made them decide to climb together to make track. Climbed nearly same route as Japanese 1980. Beghin set out for summit with Loretan and Troillet but was defeated in two attempts by sleepiness and got no higher than 8300m.

Ascent from ABC 5800m 11 pm 28 Aug to 2:00 pm 30 Aug - 39 hours.


Beghin - 17 Sept 86

Troillet wanted 1st solo Hornbein and Beghin and Loretan wanted to go up Great Couloir but Aug bad weather (heavy snowfall) and all 3 decided to go on same route to make track. 3 climbing members only went to Hornbein direct nearly same as Japanese 1980 route.

3 went together from ABC to 7800m, where made snow cave and in couloir Beghin too sleepy and return to cave while they other 2 went to top. Met again at cave. Same day as they returned, Beghin started in evening alone but at 8300m at 11 pm in Hornbein again sleepy and returned to cave (which was empty) and slept there and next morning to ABC at 5800m just below Changtse ridge on Main Rangbuk Glacier. BC at 5500m where Jeeps stop.

No Sherpas, oxygen, no ropes at all, no sleeping bags on summit push. No accidents. No idea why Beghin so sleepy except were climbing at night to avoid avalanching.

Hornbein not difficult but lower part of face very dangerous from avalanches says Beghin.


28 Aug 3 started from ABC 5800m at 11:00 pm
29 Aug reached cave 7800m at 11:00 am
left cave 8:00 pm
30 Aug 2 arrive summit 2:30 pm
2 arrive cave [at 8200m] 7:00 pm
2 arrive ABC 7:00 pm and slept there

Beghin took 2 hours from cave to ABC following day as rapid descents possible when much loose snow. ABC (1 tent) established early August but most acclimatization and waiting for good weather at BC. Left BC 5 Sept.


Loretan - 25 Sept 86

Everest Aug 1986 took no tent and sleeping bag. Took shovel for snow caving and climbed during cold hours, rested in warm hours by climbing at night. BC to BC 41 hours but risk is greater. If altitude illness or broken leg, finished with only 2 people with only 2 people in this technique.

This very light alpine-style makes possible more difficult routes and longer traverses can be done on 8000ers.


Graf - 30 July 86

Loretan, his girl friend Nicole, Troillet and Beghin at BC 2 weeks now already.

N Face to Lho La to SW Face arriving bottom of Khumbu Icefall in Sept/early Oct if HMG agreed, but apparently did not, since some gear they would have sent for Nepal side has not turned up.


Erhard Loretan (interview: 24 Sept 86)

Exactly 41 hours from BC to the summit of Everest and back to BC.

28 Aug 11 pm: "we climb all the night until 11 am 29 Aug at 7000m and at this place we make a small snow cave and we spend the afternoon drinking a lot and eating, no sleep and at a 9 pm, we start again and go to 8200m; it was very cold and we made another snow cave and we rested for three hours (from 2 am to 5 am). We stay one hour, 20 minutes, at the top and then we go down in three hours."

"From the first snow cave at 7800m to the second snow cave at 8200m, I was very tired. After that, I felt fine."

For me it would have been better to go almost non-stop. Spend an hour two in the snow cave for drinking, and then go non-stop.