원정 개요

From La Montage, Dec 1960 (translated by Rodolphe Popier)

Personnel:
Robert Sandoz (Leader)
Cecile Barbezat
Alain Barbezat
Pierre Girod
Claude Maillard: left BC before the 14th of October
Maurice Martin: left BC before the 14th of October

Hired:
Ang Namgyal (ill, did not climb, stayed at BC)
Tsering Tarkay (up to ABC)
Nima Tensing
Nawang Dorjee
Ang Dorjee
+ 85 coolies

Schedule and miscellanous details:

The expedition was funded by the FFM (former FFME) and Lyon Himalayan Committee (Comite Lyonnais de l'Himalaya).

Arrival on KTM: 13 Sept
Started from KTM (by walking): 22 Sept
Approach via Bhote Kosi, Simigaon, Beding (3650m), Nangaon (4300m)
Arrival at BC: 06 Oct at 4400m

The team used there a week period searching for its objective, intending to climb Chobutse initially on advice of Alfred Gregory (1955 expedition leader of Rolwaling expedition).

On 14 Oct, the five remaining team members left BC for intermediate camp.
On 15 Oct, the team reached its ABC (C2 in the account) located on a glacial col at the footstep of the West Ridge of Bigphera Go Nup.

After a first aborted attempt by A. Barbezat and P. Girod (who thought it could be possible to climb the ridge in a round day trip, probably on the 16 Oct1960?), the team decided to climb up in two ropes, following them by a day.

First rope: Girod, Sandoz, Nima Tensing, Ang Dorje (starting on the 17 Oct?)
Second rope: C. and A. Barbezat, Nawang Dorje (starting on the 18 Oct?)

Within 5 days, the team put a C1 in a narrow crevasse and C2 at 6150m in a 40° face (C3 and C4 in their account). On the 4th day (20 Oct?), the first rope attempted for the summit and stopped around 6350m. On the 5th day (21 Oct), the second rope without C. Barbezat did summit around midday and slept to C2 that night (with Robert Sandoz and Nima Tensing who waited for them there), then the day after all at the ABC.

After this success, the team decided to climb again some peaks first ascended by Gregory's team back in 1955. They so climbed Pimu on the 30 Oct (6350m, by Sandoz and Girod), Singkar the day after (6290m, by Sandoz and Nima Tensing). Then part of the team did a go and return through Tesi Lapcha and Thame to reach Namche Bazar (stayed there 5 days); on return, they climbed Parcharmo (6320m) on the 3 Nov.