원정 개요

BC at Rongbuk Glacier before Main and East Glacier spot
ABC 12 miles from BC up East Rongbuk at foot of North Col
C1 at North Col
New ABC at Main Rongbuk (Lake Camp)
New ABC at foot of Changtse
High point near bottom of Hornbein Couloir.

Bad weather (heavy snow) in July left him skiing to Lho La and watching snow conditions. 12 Aug put tent on Col (not erected) and down. 19 Aug to Col and slept there only one night because again heavy snowfall; down to BC. 29 Aug BC to North Col and slept 2 nights there and down again. Now decided to go to Hornbein Couloir (on 30th saw Swiss at top of Hornbein). Moved to bottom of N Face but more heavy snowfall. 15 Sept weather cleared and up to ABC.1 16th, ABC.2 17th. 9:00 pm 17th Sept in full moonlight made summit bid, but went off course to right of direct line (was very tired) and on 18th realized unable to get to top since didn't know where he was and couldn't see the route.

Webster (photographer) went twice to North Col with Marshall to take photos. Ruth DeCew to 2nd ABC on Hornbein route (Webster had gone home).


Al Read - 16 Sept 86

Everest Summer 1986: Roger Marshall

Not been on face until 1st Sept. Was with Chileans and used their fixed ropes to North Col, his highest point.

Not on Swiss-French N Face permit (probably via Hornbein) which is valid till end of Sept.

Ed Webster, his photographer, left, but girl friend still there. Webster also went to N Col.


Beghin - 17 Sept 86

Roger Marshall said he would try for 2 weeks via Hornbein, but too much snow for 1 man alone. Alone except girl friend, not even LO or interpreter.

French Swiss team left BC 5 Sept.


Roger Marshall - 20 Dec 85

N Col-N Face Everest:

July-Aug '86 - Marshall will be completely solo on mountain. BC at 21,500 ft on East Rongbuk, acclimatize up to North Col and then when snow conditions are right will make summit push. 1-4 people at BC.