원정 개요

On 29th May team of climbers and trekkers flew from KTM to Pokhara, and on 30th May and 1 June flew to Jomsom. Left Jomsom on 3rd June, went northwest via Lhang Himal Khola and Chharka Tulsi Khola and arrived Chharka village 10 June. On 12 June climbers trekked westwards to Chhoitai Lake and to base camp for ascent of Norbu Kang.

Norbu Kang base camp established on 20th June at 4805m west of lake. High camp established on 22 June at 5248m. On 23 June climbed to West Col (5492m), and on 25th from high camp fixed 50m of rope as Ohnishi, Yanigahara, Mizutani, Inoue, Chhuldim Nuru and Kanchha Dawa Sherpas climbed North Face to summit in mountain's first ascent and descended same day to base camp.

On 26 June they went northwest to Phuksundo Lake and arrived on 1 July at site for base at 4326m to attempt Shey Shikar. On 2nd July they tried unsuccessfully to climb 200m rock face on East Ridge. On 3 July left base camp and on 4th arrived at Shey Gompa. On 7th July from Shey went north-northeast to Tibetan border and arrived on 12 July Kamo Banjyang (pass on border). From there they were unable to march to Mt. Danfe Sail (6107m).

On 13th from Lunchung Kamo pass they moved to base camp for Yemelung Kang (6024m/19,764 ft). On 14th, Inoue, Mizutani and Akayama climbed its West Ridge and made second ascent of the mountain; they returned same day to base camp same day, and next day team left camp.

Now they trekked southeast. On 29 of July they arrived at base camp for an ascent of Arniko Chuli at 5545m and on same day, Mizutani, Inoue, Akayama, Ang Phurba and Pasang Deki Sherpas made mountain's second ascent via West Ridge and returned to base camp. Meanwhile Yanigahara and Kanchha Dawa Sherpa went to climb an unnamed peak (5944m/19,500 ft) via its East Ridge; they were on its summit on the 30th and returned to base camp that day. On the 31st of July they left base camp and arrive Jomsom on 2 August. The expedition was finished.

They had no accidents or illness, took no oxygen with them.


Note: The route Japanese expedition in 2003 led by Ohnishi climbed was not main peak (according to Stefan Klassert).