원정 개요

BC normal Chinese BC
ABC Central Rongbuk 54 miles from foot of face
C1 5900m 2 miles from base of face
C2 8 Sept 6200m near base of face
High point in Japanese Couloir (near the top).

Tried to climb without C2 on 29 Aug. Before that acclimatized by climbing Changzheng (6970m) north of Changtse twice: Koch and Chin to top on 6 Aug and all 3 on 18 Aug (skied down both times and snowboarded down by Koch both times and Henderson skied down).

On 29 Aug Koch, Chin and Lhakpa Dorje and Kami and got only to base of face at 6250m, where snow knee-deep, wind blast, and four falling seracs turned them around, so back to ABC 29 Aug and BC 30 Aug.

Up again to C1 on 7 Sept to C2 on 8th (C2 at 6200m) by all 3 members and both Sherpas. 9th 11:00 pm Koch, Chin and 2 Sherpas left C2 and climbed all night in increasingly deep snow; intended to get to 7800m by 11:00 am on 10th, but snow increasingly deep and they knew would take too long to get to this place, where only biv site available, so at 7000m at 8:30 am turned down to C2: Koch snowboarded down to C2 while Chin and Sherpas climbed down and reached C2 at 11:00 am.

Now climb finished - tired. Summit weather window had opened and they made their attempt, then window closed again with wind from north and decided weather not going to get better and snow deep.

Koch would like to go again via same route and complete his 7 summits snowboard descents.

Sherpas:
Kami (Everest X2)
Lhakpa Dorje (Everest 1996 spring with Breashears)