원정 개요

BC at 4500m Chulu West BC site between Chulu West and Gendang
ABC at 5200m used only by BC staff for communication with climbers
C1 at 5000m rock area under a huge rock cliff north of Gendang
C2 at 5416m West Purkhang Glacier.

Big problem to find a route: first thought could climb from C1 north across glacier and reach WNW Ridge from C1, but not possible because 100m seracs in steps and between glaciers were steep rock cliffs. So had to go westwards over Purkhang Glacier. Again seracs blocked direct route to WNW Ridge and again had to go around slightly to west. Team had too little time for recce and climb; had only 2 ropes of 50m to fix, them take out and fix higher. Summit push by Degerman and Kantanen from C3 2:30 am; Degerman reached high point 11:30 am and had to return to C3 by route deviation because sun warmed seracs and ice pieces falling; reached C3 at 7:30 pm. When C3 occupants were going to C2, expected to take C2's single tent and other gear and descend to village of Thorung Phedi but discovered that a journalist Arturri Kroeger (not official member of team) was in C2 with altitude sickness (both pulmonary and cerebral edema), so Karinen stayed with him while others went on to Thorung Phedi. Degerman arrived there 9:00 others biv on route and arrived early next morning. Meanwhile Dawa Kipa Sherpa went back to help Karinen evacuate Kroeger. BC people closed down BC (Karinen would like to try again but must have lot of time; would attempt same route probably).

Mild altitude sickness:
Kantanen - stopped in summit bid at 5700m because very tired and developed mild
cerebral edema symptoms
Karinen - while caring for Kroeger in C2 developed [alitiude] symptoms
Paroma - not acclimatizing in C2
Sipila - not acclimatizing in C1
Sittnikov - not acclimatizing in C1