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BC below Lho La
High point at Geneva Spur.

The three-man team attempted 2 routes from the south side, climbing without Sherpas, oxygen or fixed camps. First they tried to climb the West Ridge and spent the latter half of April attempting to get onto the Lho La, which they finally reached via snowfields near the Khumbutse ridge on 27th April. Next day they moved up Everest's West Ridge and bivouacked at 7100m, 100m down on the SW Face, which they descended into the Western Cwm and back to BC on the 30th. Next day turned their attention on the normal route via Lhotse's West Face; strong wind and snowfall delayed their progress but on 11th May two Polish members began to push from BC which resulted in their gaining a high point for Everest's summit of 7800m.

On the 14th May the 2 Poles, Lwow and Karolczak, went surreptitiously to the summit of Lhotse and back to their bivouac. They considered their Lhotse ascent good acclimatization for another go at the West Ridge route, but Karolczak now developed stomach illness and Austrian member Putz had dropped out of the climb because of an old back injury.

On 24th May Lwow went alone up through the Khumbu Icefall to try to solo the normal route, but the following several days brought heavy snowfall, he was able to get no higher than 6700m; he was very tired and it would have taken him more days to reach the summit alone than were left in the climbing season; he returned to BC on 27th and abandoned the struggle on the 28th of May.

Japanese agreed expedition could follow Japanese route after 1 May so first tried to climb to Lho La and 3 times were on rocks via Yugoslav route with 3rd time on 17 April got to 50m below Lho La where couloir blocked final climb without 200m more fixed rope which Poles didn't have. 23 April went to left of Yugoslavia route up snow fields near Khumbutse ridge and 27 April bivouac at Canadians camp on Lho La at 6000m. 28 April biv 6900m on ridge and 29 April reached shoulder and bivouacked 100m down on face at 7100m. 30 April descended iced SW Face to W Cwm to Japan C2 and down to BC through Icefall. 1-3 May rest at BC. 4 May 3 members BC to biv at C2 in Cwm about 6700m. 5 May biv on Lhotse face at 7300m then bad weather (wind and snow) and C3 to BC on 7 May. 11 May 2 Poles BC to C2, 12th to C3, 13th to biv 7800m on Geneva Spur. On 14 May actually both Poles went to Lhotse summit and back to biv but officially stayed 14th in biv. Thought Lhotse climb = good acclimatization for W Ridge. Returned to BC 17th and then leader got stomach problem. 24th Lwow alone up through Icefall which was "difficult" and slept at 6700m. Now heavy snowfall and 2 more nights at same biv. 27 May down to BC through much changed Icefall where however he had placed marker flags. 28th 15 cm more new snow at BC and "it was finished" because Lwow very tired and would take 4 days to go to summit but only 3 days of season remained.

Did acclimatization climb to 1m below Lhotse summit rather than up Everest SE Ridge because couloir on Lhotse gave protection from wind.

Had definitely intended to return to W Ridge route, but Karolczak's illness precluded this.