원정 개요

BC at 5200m near little lake
Deposit not slept in at 5500m at bottom of first snow gully
C1 on 18th May at 6350m at East Col.

Spent long time fixing rope on four days with rest days and while some acclimatizing - some did not adjust to altitude: Coelho moved above deposit and left expedition 13 May and was most serious problem. Left BC at midnight of 17/18 May. 7 members got to Col at 4:00 pm and four members not strong enough to go on; body oxygen-level low but insisted to go on but very slow in this area above Col where no ropes were fixed, even went to sleep, very slow (Santos, Rosaldo and Garcia only strong ones). Sancho turned back at 100m above Col; on top at 4:00 pm Bruno Carvalho, Ceulers, H. Ceulers, R. Coelho, Garcia, Rosado and Santos and slept at Col that night and BC 20th May.

Coelho went only to deposit at 5500m and left team.