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Nuptse East Expedition

Nuptse East I · 2003 · 봄 (1) · Italy

원정 개요

BC at 5200m at Lhotse Nuptse Glacier
C1 at 6880m at junction of Bonington and Babanov pillar.
Kammerlander's pillar "very logical pillar" but very hard route; some days only 40-50m at 90 degrees and overhang in places. Team very strong; weather good only 2-3 days with no snow falling and some days very strong winds. Need 3-4 days very nice weather all day. From 6800m up had ice and snow face. Fixed rope from 5400m to 6400m. 6 May reached C1, down to BC 8th May for rest. 12 May to C1 and found only broken tents, so turned around and returned base camp 10:00 pm and no more chance to climb: would have to rebuild camp and refix (first ropes buried in ice) and time over. This route more difficult than Babanov's route.

This team first even to attempt this route.

  • 내부 원정 ID4354
  • 원본 EXPIDNUPE03102
  • 대장Hans Kammerlander
  • 루트 (Route)Middle pillar on S Face leading to Nuptse East
  • 최고 도달고도6880m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Johann (Hans) KammerlanderItalyLeader---
Robert AlpoeggerItalyClimber---
Konrad Johan AuerItalyClimber---
Alois BruggerItalyClimber---
Wilfried OberhoferItalyClimber---
Hartmann SeeberItalyClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 2003 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200440602/Asia-Nepal-Malahangur-Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Nuptse-East-I-South-Face-Pre-Monsoon-Attempts · 2003 · 웹사이트 (5) ·