원정 개요

BC on 5200m at Lhotse Nup glacier
xxx on 7450m pillar.

No fixed camps; each day weather permitting went up and fixed rope. When reached 6200-6300m at tower's top, slept here 2nd April and 3rd April, fixed tower and down for few day's rest. Fixed to 6400m and from there climbed alpine style on not such difficult terrain and could do this faster. Slept at 6700m 19 April there 2 stops were for acclimatization. 21 April to BC and down to Dingboche to go down to lower altitude.

Returned to BC after few days. Started thus trials to make higher push but snowfall prevented reaching this tent at 6700m three times. Finally got to tent in 15 hour 5 minutes climb from BC despite route mostly fixed. 6 May too windy to move up. 7 May up to 7100m where slept. 8th May to 7300m, slept there (no higher because of wind). 9th May to 7400m. 10 May started but only 50m progress and heavy snowfall and very cold and avalanche danger, so down to 7100m. 11 May very cold and down to BC 8:30 pm. Babanov throat problem down to Pheriche clinic.

Again to mountain started up 11 May and got to 5400m and down tired and now was snowfall continuously all day; climb finished: too much snowfall, very tired and no time left to take good rest before resuming attempt. Also Babonov throat problem persisted.

Wants to return: now knows the route - hopes to come in Autumn 2003.