원정 개요

C1 at top of Khumbu Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col
High point at below South Summit.

Had rest period between C3 and C4. Then left BC on 3 May for summit attack by Endo, Nagao, Okadome, 2 Sherpas and Matsunaga on 4 May. 4 May to C2, 5 May to C3, bad weather and back to C2.

7 May up again from C2 8 May to C3 and C4 on 9 May. Miss Nagano in not good condition and returned to C2 7 May but had climbed to South Col twice before then. 10 May 01:30 hours started from Col: Endo, Matsunaga and Pemba Tsering. At 9:00 hrs reached 8600m. Now very cold and strong wind and had taken too long to reach this point. so turned back. Climb finished.

Okadome cannot climb without oxygen and not possible for small team carry up enough for this. Now no strength left in team for more attempts.

Found body of Indian below C3 at bottom of Lhotse Face. Did not see Mrs. Schmatz although little snow above Col.

Endo made this second Everest climb to make it possible for Miss Nagao to become the 1st woman atop Everest without using oxygen.


Tourism - 18 May

At South Col on 9 May:

leader Endo (no oxygen)
Tadanori Matunaga
Pemba Tshering

and attacked from C4. Left 1:45 am and return Col 9 hours 15 minutes to 8600m. On 10 May abandoned because: 25-50 cm soft snowfall above Col, high winds and exhaustion.

All members well.