원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at West Cwm
C3 at West Face of Lhotse
C4 at West Face below couloir.

Durcanin and Barisas went on expedition with intention to get to South Col but each other reached only 6850m on Lhotse's West Face (Durcanin tried twice and Barisas tried 3 times to get to South Col).

Gariano, Rust and 2 Sherpas went to top on 25 May at 8:30 am; just ahead of these 2 Mexicans and their 2 Sherpas. Weather was clear with winds at 25-35 mph and temperature -20F - 30 F. "Safety Sherpa" was Ang Pasang, who climbed in support of Gariano and Rust to about 7620m to 7770m.

Oxygen: "We all used oxygen above C4" and Gariano and Rust used it above C3 and Ang Pasang used it "occasionally."

Sherpa summiters:
Pasang Nuru, 19/4/2029 (32 years old), Kharikhola, 1st 8000er
Pemba Chhiri, 27/11/2040 (19 years old), Paiya, Jubing-7, 1st 8000er


Email by John Rust to Jeevan Shrestha - Wed 2nd July 2003

I had three clients in to total with me 4 for the Lhotse climb. Scott Durcanin (US citizen), George Barisas (US citizen) and Lorenzo Gariano living in Britain). Scott and George intentions were for the South Col of Everest only. Scott made it on 2 rotations to upper altitude and occupied C2 climbing to 22,500 ft on the Lhotse Face as his high point, George made 3 rotations occupying C2 and making it to 22,500 ft on the Lhotse Face the third time as his high point, Lorenzo, myself, Sherpa Pasang Nuru 1973 YOB, and Sherpa Pemba made the summit of Lhotse on May 20th at about 8:30 am. Weather conditions were clear with winds 25-35 and temperatures approximately -20 to -30 degrees fahrenheit. We all used oxygen above C4 and additionally, Lorenzo and I used oxygen above C3. We also had a safety Sherpa Ang Pasang, whom made it to C4 (Lhotse) using oxygen occasionally and hiked above C4 to about 25,000 or 25,500 as support on summit day (this is an approximation as I do not know specifically how far he came in support as we turned him around before getting back to him). We also summited just in front of a Mexican husband and wife team and their two Sherpas.

We shared with the Irish and Benegas but essentially we had 3 for our team, 7 between Scott Woolums and our Group and 13-14 for sharing between the Irish and ourselves.

We left on 24 May 2003 at 9:30 am - our helicopter almost crashed when taking off (very close) and by 12:05 we were in Kathmandu after a hairy ride through many clouds on the plane from Lukla to Kathmandu - this part of the climb was scariest!!!