원정 개요

BC just to left of Langtang Glacier
C1 at Tilman's Col
C2 at notch.

BC 2 days further than expected site (further north) just off Langtang Glacier; 2 days more required to move up badly broken glacier covered by deep snow; "porters really earned their money." 13-17th April spent laod carrying to establish C3 properly. 17th Harris went to 6300m fixing rope. 18th Boyce up to 6400m fixing more rope. 19th Boyce up to 6500m fixing rope and to look for site for C3 at 6700m but would have taken another week to get there because of too much snow all along route with insecure conditions underfoot at 50-55 degree slope and Boyce was only member (with 2 Sherpas) up so high. Above C2 route confined to ridge all the way up and fixed 500m rope here. Boyce wouldn't go back with a team of five members only; ten would be best; members too scattered along route alone; another team may have serious problem getting porters to go there next time. Snowed every day for all 10 days at mountain (and every night getting back to BC) and filled in tracks daily.

Moore had to go back on approach march because not acclimatizing; went back along Langtang Khola to Kangjin Kharka Gompa and arrived BC 9 days late so never got to C1. Davies had stomach trouble.