원정 개요

BC at south side of lake just east of Khangri Shar Glacier
C1 at south end of South Ridge
High point at SE Col on Glacier.

Did not attempt South Ridge because too steep and overhanging rock and did not need to go up to avoid avalanching off of Pumori as had feared. When they looked at ridge, decided not possible; so decided to climb to East Col and then in ridge moved close to west side of glacier at bottom of rock face on glacier but big crevasse at 6300m across glacier. More big crevasses on Pumori side. Was only passage across by unsafe snow bridges. Stopped attempt at 6300m on glacier below SE Face and south of East Col. Had hoped to put C2 on East Col at 6480m.

Sherpas were technically very good. Now no wish to try other approach to mountain because other routes would be difficult and members are "serious people." Fixed 700m to C1 and above C1 1250m (quite steep glacier above C1). Mountain is for younger people climbing in alpine style, possibly via same route, possibly up rock face of 75 degrees angle.

Two members (Igo & Itoh) had slight cases of altitude sickness, left BC on 30 April, returned to BC 6 May by which time it was too late for them to join climb, so they never went above BC although team had flown to Lukla on 19 April and took ten days to arrive at BC via an acclimatization trek, but this trek was not long enough and high enough for this age group. Two other members had serious stomach problems: Nakagawa never reached BC, Tanaka got to BC but left on 30 April and did not return, so team had only 4 climbing members.