원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
CI at beginning of small plateau
C2 at 2nd plateau
C3 on North Ridge
High point at C3.

23 Apr slept at 6400m but no camp there; 24th to C2 to sleep and 25 Apr to BC. Waited for winds to die. 8th May to C2 from BC; 9th May to C3; 10th from C3 to BC because of wind. 17th to C2; 18th May to C2; in C3 one day and 20th 3:00 am all 4 members left C3 for top and at 4:20 pm on top. 20 minutes on top by 3 members and Carlos 1 hour taking pictures (on top now down standing in snow and 2 yellow oxygen bottles (upright and lying in snow). 3 members slept in C3 while Carlos slept in couloir at 7100m without any biv preparation. Carlos had lost route and on 20th fell 150m little above C3 but not hurt and reached empty C3 9:00 am 21st; down again weather bad, slept at about 7400m. 22nd arrived BC with only 1 ice axe (lost other axe during fall). Others already in BC. Pauner descended by new route.