원정 개요

High point at snow just below romp leading to Col.

Had C1 at normal 6200m but moved it to 6300m on 28 April to make it closer to C2. Lock went to C2 but Boskoff didn't have heart for climbing; route not difficult but not motivated because "straightforward and would just been hiking up someone's else a trail." She decided on 10 May to go home and returned KTM 15 May; leaves Nepal 14 May.

Lock - 25 May

28 April C1.5 at 6300m wanting to push higher tahn C1; was on face at edge of icefall leading to great shelf. C2 at only 6900m on face below Great Shelf on 30 April (Boskoff did not go to this camp). C3 at high end of Shelf. Tricky getting to C3 because of serac barrier just before its site. 20 May climbed to 7600m + alone because C3 last camp and climb from there to top and back very far and all started too late (2:30 am instead of 10:00 pm of 19th as Lock wanted) and clouds developed during night and in distance could see them threatening bad weather and white out would be major problem. These three factors made Lock feel not right to go up, especially as he could not climb so fast as Kuntner, Mondinelli and Kobe Reichen since Lock not so strong as them. Lock down to BC on 20th May after turning back at 4:30 am, to C3 at 5:00 am, BC at 2:30 pm. While descending from C3 white-out and had problem finding route and total white-out below C1 but fixed ropes enabled him to find BC.

Climb not very challenging at start but above Great Shelf is definitely a challenge. Lock would like to try this route again, but would establish a C4 and climb with stronger team.

Source of above information: Boskoff & Lock