원정 개요

Summit bid began from C4 in 21 May at 3:00 am by 3 Tibetans, and by Chi Drugar and Cang at 3:50. S Korean party Park Joo-Hoon, Um and Pasang went up at different times because tents not close together, bad weather (much snow, windy cloudy) so no communication and Tibetans started with Chinese party. All reached summit at same time (and Chinese also) at 2:45 pm CST, very slow because of bad weather. Weather cleared 15 minutes before summit reached. Um with walkie-talkie asked Korean team about weather on Nepali side and was told weather very bad and Um climbed down 100m Nepali side and found it was very bad (windy and cloudy) so down Tibetan side instead. Um down to 7800m C2 and all others to C3 8300m only on 21st and 22nd to ABC. Others: Park and Pasang to ABC, 2 Tibetan woman to 7000m, Tibetan climbing leader snowblind and stayed 8300m.

22 May summit party left 8300m at 8:20 am to go up to top: Koo, Park Jong-Gwan, Ko and Gyalha and on top 7:10 am to 8:00 am and down to 8300m. Had to wait long time to descend because so many other climbers on route at same time and reached 8300m at 4:30 pm. 23rd to ABC. Pasang Sherpa on 1st summit team because Tibetan women needed help in their descent and Koreans thought it was good to have one in case of accident and he (Sherpa) wanted to go to top. Um had planned to descend SE Ridge - South Col route to BC and had Nepalese permission.

Oxygen used by all members of both summit parties from 8300m camp climbed up (except 2 Tibetans women from 7800m and sleeping at 8300m and all down to 8300m only - Um on low flow giving up because expected to need it down on Nepal side.

Sherpa summiters:
Pasang Sherpa, 30-32 years old, Khumbu, 1st 8000er

Chinese leader Chiu Zenig stayed in Lhasa, never went to BC.

Oxygen used by all members of both summit parties from 8300m camp climbed up (except 2 Tibetan women from 7800m and sleeping at 8300m) and all down to 8300m only. Um on low [flow] going up because expected to need it down on Nepal side.