원정 개요

Tulpan left C3 at 23:30 hours NST on May 21, summit at 08:10 hours of 22nd. He met 4 Koreans who was to traverse to south side. There was one French with Sherpas; about 6 people were on summit. Two Koreans put new fix ropes while descending. Visibility was about 50 meters. Strong wind, Tulpan stayed about 40 minutes. He saw new ice axe, four grabs, *two ice screws maybe left by the Koreans. Returned to C3 at 12:00 hours. Saw three dead bodies on the way down. On Second Step had to wait for one hour due to very slow 3 Spanish climbers. Bogdan, Gane, Nima Gombu, Dawa Nuru left C3 at 01:00 hours on May 22. Summit at 11:30 hours and stayed about an hour. Before them were Korean/Spanish - there were about 20 people on the summit. Back to C3 about 17:00 hours. Nima and Dawa stayed on summit waiting for Lakpa. Bogdan and Gane while descending met Lakpa, Mingkipa, Mingma with other Sherpas coming up at about 50m below the summit. Dijmarescu had to return from before the First Step due to the problem of oxygen mask. All members reached up to C1.

Records:
1. First Romanian expedition to summit Everest.
2. Tulpan paragided from North Col, landed at ABC level. Airborne
take off at 16:40 hours, landing at 17:10 hours. 30 minutes on the air.
He thinks perhaps longest airborne time (paragliding) in Everest
area - high altitude. It took place on May 9.
3. 3 members from same family (siblings) summiting same time Lakpa, Mingkipa and Mingma Gelu.

Expedition returned on May 26 to KTM - leaving on June 06.

Dijmarescu up to First Step on 22nd (at the time of meeting Dijmarescu was still on mountain for summit attempt). The bio-forms for Dijmarescu, BC at 5200m at CBC, C1 at 7000m N Col (pitched on April 23).


Lakpa and Mingkipa forms were given to leader Neacsu to be collected later. But was told that Dijmarescu refused to fill the forms. Did talk to Dijmarescu over telephone on his return - he refused to meet.

- Dogaru up to 6500m, heartbeat (pulses) got rapid sent back to ABC.
- Galescu about 7400m, the medicine (Diamox) allergy. He fell down at ABC, hit
ribs; radiography (X-Ray) done on 31st in KTM indicated cracks on two ribs.
He was sent down to CBC on May 21.
- George had to leave expedition on April 16 due to family problem.
- Neacsu got minor stroke, swollen face and hands. Up to C1, then rest of time
at CBC.
- Sima up to 7300m on May 20, throat infection due to dry air in altitude;
same day to ABC and CBC on 22nd.
- Smilovici up to 7200m - same case like Sima
- Georgescu stayed CBC. May 2 to KTM - 4 May to Romania - Low palpitation.
- Koga went up to 2nd Step with the summiters, waited one and half hours.
Slept at C3. First time at that altitude.
- Pisica up to 6500m, went down to ABC with Georgescu.
- Ruchareanu up to 6400m - tooth infection, went to KTM, returned to CBC; all the
time could not go to Tibet due to no permit.

4 June 2004 - Russell Brice's sirdar and summiter Phurba Tashi Dijmarescu went to summit on 31 May at same time as he - Dijmarescu was using oxygen.

Lakpa and Mingkipa were not officially listed on the permit as team members, but were on the team as non-registered climbers instead of high-altitude porters (their official designation). Lakpa and Mingkipa are sisters and Lakpa is Dijmarescu's wife. Mingma Gelu is the brother of Lakpa and Mingkipa.


March 2004

Lapka told Elizabeth Hawley that Dijmarescu made a second and successful summit bid with Russians about 10 days after the first attempt on May 22. Dijmarescu remained on the mountain with the Russian team after the Romanian team departed on May 25.

When the Russians departed at the end of May, Viatcheslav Skripko reported via EverestNews.com that Dijmarescu was high on the mountain alone poised for a second attempt. EverestNews reported in early June 2003 that Dijmarescu summited on May 31. In December 2003, EverestNews published summit photos taken by Dijmarescu at 4:55 am.

This summit success has not been confirmed by any other sources.