원정 개요

TBC at road head
BC at Rongbuk Glacier (last stop for yaks)
C1 at beginning of North Face
C2 on North Face
C3 on North Face
C4 at bottom of Hornbein Couloir
C5 in Hornbein (slept by 2 or 3 Japanese only)

C1 and C2 very steep ice climbing and all fixed with rope; C2 to C3 not so steep, mixed rock and snow. C3 to C4 little steeper, lower part rock, higher part mostly snow. Avalanche destroyed C4 gear dump (no one slept there) in late Nov. All equipment transported to site but when next set of Sherpas arrived there soon after found all carried away by avalanche down Hornbein Couloir and some of it found near C1. Another supply carried up and slept in by almost all climbing Japanese and by 5 Sherpas. Then winds came up. Fixed 12 ropes up Hornbein and had depot camp in Hornbein. More progress upwards but winds worse and worse.

Leader: Mrs Michiko Takahashi; climbing leader Okura; Total 9 Japanese.
Leader to BC and C1, only 4 motorcyclists to near C1 and 8 climbers; total 13 Sherpas; sirdar at BC and C1 only; BC kitchen boy; C1 cook and 10 climbers.

Sherpas:
Lhakpa Tenzing, sirdar to Everest summit 1973 spring Italian exp
Dawa Norbu to Everest summit 1985 spring Norwegian exp
Nawang Yonden to Everest summit 1983 winter Japanese exp

Sherpas went to Everest for 1885 expedition via Kodari, but Chinese gave permission for only one crossing at Kodari, so returned to Nepal via Peking.


Kim Ki-Heyg (Everest W Ridge leader) - 24 Dec 85

Japanese Everest N Face Winter 85:

Koreans often saw Japanese. Japan C2 very near Koreans C2. Japanese making good progress had no strong winds inside Hornbein Couloir.


Saito (Japan Everest, autumn 1985) - 20 Aug 85

Everest Winter 85-86:

Mrs Kobayashi again leads on all male climbing team to Everest N Face (Hornbein Couloir) starting in Oct - about 15 members.