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Yeti 2003 Mt Everest Expedition

Everest · 2003 · 봄 (1) · Japan

원정 개요

BC at 5100m CBC first intermediate camp - 5600m on 12th
second intermediate camp - 6000m on 14th
C1 at 7000m North Col (used by Grenier, Izumida and Okochi)
C2 at 7800m used by Grenier & Okochi and 3 sherpas
C3 at 8300m used by same members and Sherpas as of C2)

Kitazawa got HAS at 6000m on 14th April (he could not speak and left half of body was paralyzed); moved to CBC same day and next day to KTM; hospitalized in Apollo hospital. Takabatake accompanied the Kitazawa to Ktm. Kitazawa left Nepal on May 8. Takabatake returned to CBC on April 21.

First team: May 20 started from C3 at 03:00 hours (NST) two members and three Sherpas. Summit at 09:15 hours. All together stayed 35 minutes, then descended -> Pemba Tshering stayed at C2, other members to ABC. Okochi arrived ABC at 17:30 hours, Grenier at 18:30 hours together with two Sherpas. This is the first team to summit from north side in this season. While descending the team members saw five dead bodies. Met two Sherpas coming up from American expedition while descending.

Second team: May 22 Three members and three Sherpas started from C3 at 02:00 hours. Summit at 12:00 hours together. Spent about 30 minutes on summit, returned to C3; Takabatake, Tanaka and Lhakpa at 16:00 hours, Izumida and two Sherpas at 18:30. They were very tired. It was very cold, poor visibility, sometimes very strong wind and snowfall. According to Amemiya (leader) Izumida met Yousira on summit from south side. There were about 10 to 15 people when the Yeti team reached summit.

Initially the expedition planned to have third team to summit comprising of two members Miyaderea and Uchida who reached up to 7800m (C2), but due to lack of support team the expedition decided not to try summit.

Minor frostbites - fingers of the following members:
- Grenier, Izumida, Kohara, Okochi, Takabatake, Tanaka.

Oxygen: All members used oxygen at 7800m (C2) for sleep and climbing to summit back to C2. All Sherpas used oxygen from 8300m (C3) to summit and to C3.

Following members went to Lhasa and arrived KTM on June 03.
- Amemiya, Izumida, Kohara, Okochi, Takabatake, Tanaka

Rest of the members arrived KTM on May 29
- Grenier and Okochi left Nepal on June 03.
Rest of the members will leave Nepal on June 07.

Adrian Nature told Takabatake on 25 or 26 May that his friend Krysztof did not come down (ABC) for 8 days.

Members reached up to:
- leader Amemiya remained at ABC; Fujimura up to C2 (7800m)
- Kohara up to C3 (8300m), Kono up to C1 (7000m), Mrs. Maeda to ABC
- Miss Miyadera to C2 (7800m), Ogasawara to C1 (7000m), Uchida to C1 (7000m)

  • 내부 원정 ID4307
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER03159
  • 대장Takashi Amemiya
  • 루트 (Route)N Col-NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 20명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Takashi AmemiyaJapanLeader---
Philippe GrenierFranceClimbing Leader성공사용-
Nobuo FujimuraJapanClimber-사용-
Kiyoyuki IzumidaJapanClimber성공사용-
Toru KitazawaJapanClimber---
Kazuharu KoharaJapanClimber-사용-
Masao KonnoJapanClimber---
Eku MaedaJapanClimber---
Miho MiyaderaJapanClimber-사용-
Susumu OgasawaraJapanClimber---
Hiroyuki OkochiJapanClimber성공사용-
Akira TakabatakeJapanClimber성공사용-
Motoyoshi TanakaJapanClimber성공사용-
Makoto UchidaJapanClimber---
Da Dendi (Da Tendi) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lhakpa Temba SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Tenzing SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Tshering SherpaNepalSirdar성공사용-
Pasang TamangNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

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