원정 개요

BC at usual site
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Cwm (after many loads brought up)
C3 on SW Face (at noly place there in for one tent)
C4 on SW Face (same place as 1975 autumn)
High point at C5 site.

At end of climb only Kim and Um left. At C2 on 15th night one tent blown 50m and all gear destroyed there. 2 men not properly clothed, huddled together, in morning found boots and other protective materials and "escaped" down to BC safely; climbing finished. On 15 Jan Kim and Um to the highest point at 7700m; above this needed rock equipment they did not have with them for difficult rock above and winds strong so descended without establishing C5. By now others down with injured Sherpa and many tents broken, food depleted and not all members able to go to high altitude. By 16 Jan all in BC except Kim and Um. Very little snow on face. Studied Bonington's book to learn camp sites.

1 Sherpa broke leg 15 Jan and members down with him. Had been hit by falling stone while descending from C3. Much falling stone, some carried sideways by wind. No other problems.

Expedition climbed late because sea freight arrived late. Should have started sooner, had more equipment and food, and 1 or 2 more Sherpas even when not having to establish Icefall route.


Kim Ki-Heyg (W Ridge leader) - 24 Dec 85

Kim met SW Face leader at Gorak Shep on 14 Dec. Only 3 members at BC by then and they had only few loads there.