원정 개요

Tent at Col had been blown into huge crevasse but important quantity of gear recovered; blown in 10-day storm 30 April to 9 May. 2 Roskelleys and 2 Sherpas left C3 at midnight of 20/21 May and were first on summit on 21 May at 7:45 am NST and down to C2 to sleep. No health problems in summit push climbers.

Roskelleys used oxygen sleeping at 7800m and used it climbing and sleeping all way to top and down (Jess down to 8300m only cause had no more oxygen left, John to 7800m). Sherpas started use at 8300m to top to 8300m.

Down to ABC 22 May was traffic jam at ladder; "it was a zoo on the route all the time with so many people going up and especially at 2nd Step," John said.

Bass and Wickwire left expedition, 7 May and left KTM 8 May.