원정 개요

C2 in W Cwm
C3 on West Face
C4 at S Col.

21st May unsuccessful summit bid with 120 other people to 8400m by Anderson, Hamilton, Minakata, Ponce, Stam and Vilane and Ziel and 5 Sherpas (Pasang Tenzi, Thunde, Nima Tenzi, Dawa Tenzing and Pemba Tshering) and all people back to South Col. [Gangdal and Ousland also on this attempt.]

25th next bid by Anderson, Hamilton, Minakata, Ponce, Vilane and same 5 Sherpas [plus Stam, Ousland, Ziel]; left C4 at 9:00 pm. 2 Mexicans on top at 7:30 am and rest 8:30 am - took 2-1/2 hours from South Summit to summit but could have done it in 1 hour if there had not such large number of people and lack of snow on scree at bottom of Hillary Step and up Step. Back to C4 (Mexicans) and Vilane at 6:00 pm, Anderson and Hamilton 9:00 pm (late because Ziel had gotten to 8840m and then snowblind so 2 leaders had to bring him down); others who tried on 25-26th but failed were to 8565m - Stam (too slow and oxygen problems) and Ousland to South Summit at 8:00 am and "terrible wind, had been too slow. All slept in C4.

Foster left expedition 12 May exhausted; Crellin also left same day exhausted; Wickham left 24 May also exhausted.

Vilane: "It was fantastic, the whole climb and coming back again," "very exciting to be the first black on summit" and "very proud" to be first black. Most difficult part for him was Hillary Step. "This was the one place that gave me some difficulties because I had to deal with rock crampons on." He did this climb to show blacks they can do this climb. Would like to climb another 8000er if the chance become available and would do this climb for himself.

Some claims arose in Swaziland, where Vilane was born, that he was citizen of Swaziland. Trekking agent says he came to Nepal on South African passport issued in Pretoria by South African govt.

Oxygen used:

Members and Sherpas on both summit bids: sleeping in C3, all except Anderson to C4, all in C4, C4 to top to C4. Anderson did not use it to C4 because he gave it to Ziel while helping him to descend.

Summit Sherpas
Pasang Tenzing, 19 (15/6/2041), Gaurishankar VDC, 1st 8000er
Thunde, 26 (7/11/2034), Gaurishankar VDC, 1st 8000er
Pema Tshering, 33 (2/3/2027), Makalu VDC, 1st 8000er
Dawa Tenzing, 28 (14/7/2032), Gaurishankar VDC, 1st 8000er
Nima Tenzi, 23 8/5/2037), Gaurishankar VDC, 1st 8000er