1985-86 Korea University Winter Everest Expedition
Everest · 1985 · 겨울 (4) · S Korea
원정 개요
BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 on Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 above South Col
High point at SE Ridge.
21 Dec summit party of Kim Jong-Ho, Park Dong-Seok and Ang Rita reached 8300m; Park used Italian oxygen mask which froze in -50 degree C temp, so they gave up and returned to C4. Ang Rita took no oxygen and Kim had not yet begun using his.
The next day 22 Dec Ang Rita descended to C2 while Kim Jong-Ho and Park Dong-Seok up again without oxygen use, but carrying 1 bottle each for use above South Summit. They moved slowly and at 8500m only at 3:00 pm after 9 hours climbing and gave up and back to C4 and to C2 23 Dec.
24 Dec Kim and Ang Rita (to C4 on 23 Dec) planned summit bid, but wind too strong and did not leave C4. 25 Dec they went down to C2. All members to BC.
Up again 28 Dec, but wind prevented reaching C3. 28 Dec-8 Jan stayed C2 but daily wind prevented climbing, some days even leaving tents except Kim up to C4 on 6 Jan, found tent broken and down same day. 7 Jan Park to C4 to deposit new tent but strong wind and nose and ears slightly frostbitten. All to BC 9 Jan and 5 climbing members to Namche, 2 in BC with Sherpas to BC 19 Jan but Icefall required 6 days repair. Reached C2 31 Jan, 10 days stayed but wind too strong although 8 Feb Kim Jong-Ho and Park Sung-Woo to C3 in tent for 7 days and down to BC 15 Feb.
Bad weather throughout Jan and Feb defeated other summit bids.
Found body of one Indian climber frozen to ice above C2, below Lhotse face.
Oh (Tawache leader) - 18 Jan 86
Korean South Col Everest:
Oh came back to KTM 16 Jan. Met South Col Everest members in Namche and leader Kim is now in KTM. Climbing leader and one other Korean member are at BC, Sherpas have gone to their homes except for 1 or 2 at BC. Expedition plans one more summit attempt.
Tourism - 26 Dec 85
Everest Korean Univ.
C3 - 15 Dec - 7450m
C4 - 20 Dec - 7950m
Kim Jong-Ho and Ang Rita tried for summit 21 Dec but turned back at 8350m because of oxygen problem. Expedition continues.
Kim Ki-Heyg (West Ridge leader) - 24 Dec 85
Everest South Col:
By time Kim left BC on 14 Dec, South Col team had made C3 but had 2 accidents: 1 Sherpa fell into crevasse and injured head, fire in Indian tent at C2 destroyed 2 Sherpas gear. Should be making C4 about now.
- 내부 원정 ID428
- 원본 EXPIDEVER85403
- 대장Nam Sang-Tae
- 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
- 최고 도달고도8500m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용사용
- 종료 사유악천후 (4)
참가자 12명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sang-Kyum Kim | S Korea | Commandant | - | - | - |
| Sang-Tae Nam | S Korea | Leader | - | - | - |
| Jong-Ho Kim | S Korea | Deputy Leader | - | - | - |
| Sung-Kun Chung | S Korea | Climber | - | - | - |
| Sung-Am Hong | S Korea | Climber | - | - | - |
| Kyung-Soon Jang | S Korea | Climber | - | - | - |
| Chang-Hoon Kim | S Korea | Climber | - | - | - |
| Young-Dae Kim | S Korea | Climber | - | - | - |
| Dong-Seok Park | S Korea | Climber | - | 사용 | - |
| Seung-Min Park | S Korea | Climber | - | - | - |
| Sung-Woo Park | S Korea | Climber | - | - | - |
| Ang Rita Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |