원정 개요

C3 at 7200m Lhotse Face
C4 at 7900m South Col.

20 May summit party from C4; Todd, Casserley, Vann, Mackay and Jack: Todd stopped after 2 hours not strong enough; Mackay stopped at balcony with oxygen problem, Jack stopped below Hillary Step at 11:00 am because strong, cold wind and long queue for Step and Lhakpa Chhiri stopped and returned with Mackay and Pasang Tshering stopped and down with Jack; Lhakpa also with Mackay. All slept in C4.

Oxygen use by summit party members from C3 and in C4 to high point; to C4 by some members but not enough oxygen for all because job extreme conjestions on route so supplies ran out at the balcony after having been using it for 18-20 hours. Mackay's supply ran out at balcony and he collapsed, was revived by spare oxygen sent up in case of emergency and was helped down by 3 Sherpas. Summit party Sherpas used oxygen climbing above C4 to top to, but not in C4.

Summit Sherpas:
Pasang Nuru, aka Ang Nuru, Pangboche, 21 years, Cho Oyu Aut 2002,
brother of Pasang Tshering (Cho Oyu X2, Everest X3)
Pasang Dawa, aka Pa Dawa, Pangboche, Everest X3, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1
Gurmi Dorje, aka Gurmin Dorje, Pangboche, Everest X1 (16/05/02)

Other Sherpas:
Lhakpa Chhiri, Pangboche
Lhakpa, Pangboche, (Ever N X1 in 2002; Annapurna I Indian Army summiter 2002)
Pasang Tshering, Pangboche, (Cho Oyu X2, Everest X3)