원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at West Cwm
C3 at Lhotse face
C4 at South Col.

Guller, Scott and 4 Sherpas left C4 for top 8:00 pm 22 May. Scott at midnight turned back at 8200m without oxygen because was too cold to continue. Guller and Sherpas summited at 12:15 pm together without Scott. No one else was on top at this time; thus were going down at that time. "Fullfillmment of a dream" and especially nice that top was not crowded and he was with people that he knew. Slept in C4 (arrived at Col 20 May and slept there 4 nights) and got snowblind for few minutes till medicine cleared his sight. Had taken off googles at top of Hillary Step to keep balance since no left arm to help. Returned to C4 at 7:30 pm on 23rd. 25th to C2, having spent extra night at Col for complete recovery from blindness. As difficult or more difficult and tiring for me "coming down; pushed my right arm and right side hard."

Oxygen:
Guller slept over in C3 and up from C3 to top to C4
Sherpas in C4 to top and in C4
Scott also in C4

Ability to climb dependent on balance and confidence - never used his wall: ice axe; just followed fixed lines (but no jummaring).

Watkin's edema - had gone a little way into Icefall - left expedition 1 May.

Bousselaire developed pulmonary edema and left expedition 10 May.

Karma Gyalzen got pulmonary edema, collapsed and died quickly while descending just before top of Icefall.

Sherpa summiters:
Nima Dawa, Gudel village, Everest X1, Dhaulagiri I
Pemba Tenzi, Sotang VDC, Cho Oyu X3
Da Nima, 31, Bhakanje, 1st 8000er
Namgyal, 32, Lelep-8 VDC, Taplejung, 1st 8000er