원정 개요

Meraldi for expedition climb started from BC 22 May 4:00 pm and to C4 in 9 hours 50 minutes with 2 hours in C3 because feet cold (Lhotse too light); stopped in C4 because feet extremely cold and cold wind; at C4 1:50 am of 23 May and slept in C4 nights of 23 and 24 May. Di Centa and Dorje left C4 22 May 11:40 pm and on top 9:45 am of 23 May. Tried to pass Gary Guller, who was now going slowly, just below South Summit and difficult to pass but managed on soft snow. Di Centa slept in C4, Dorje on 22 May. Sala climbed alone to C4 behind Di Centa and Dorje on 22 May; tried to climb 23 May and up only 1 hour and turned back cold and tired at 8100m. Meraldi wants to come again to speed climb mountain with better boots and better/stronger team, better walkie-talkie and better organization.

Lugli cracked a rib coughing but went to C2 anyway to assist Meraldi's record speed climb, then to BC to stay.

Odasso went only to C1 because his girl friend had forbidden him to go above 7000m.

Pozzi had breathing problem in BC but climbed to C3 and her condition became acute but she survived.

Oxygen:
Di Centa - sleeping in C3 and continuously to top and down to C3 but not sleeping in C3.
Dorje - climbing from C4 to top to C4 but not in C4.
Meraldi used no oxygen at any time.

Di Centa took flag of International Olympia Committee to summit & has photo of her with flag and framed pictures.