원정 개요

BC closest to snout of glacier (Central Main Rongbuk)
ABC at Central Rongbuk near small lake
C1 opposite Lho La at northern cwm
C2 right of arete
C3 at snow slope above arete
High point on North Face.

Attemped 3 routes from the north. First tried to reach West Ridge via a north arete, then a line on North Face left of Great Couloir, and finally on North Face farther left again to North Ridge.

Attempt on first route (W Ridge via N arete), abandoned because of severe avalanching, which swept gear away.

1st route: BC(05/08,5250m),ABC(15/08,5820m),C1(20/08,6250m),C1.8(6780m),C2(03/09,6700m),
C3(08/09,6900m),xxx(10/09,7240m)

Second route (N Face left of Great Couloir) also abandoned after avalanching, and most members by now had stopped climbing.

2nd route: BC(05/08,5250m),ABC(15/08,5820m),C1(20/08,6250m),C2(20/09,6850m),
C3(22/09,7240m),xxx(23/09,7315m)

On third route (N Face to N Ridge), very brief attempt abandoned with no net altitude gain achieved; climbers pinned down in C3 for three nights by strong winds, and they retreated via N Col route established by Japanese team.

3rd route: BC(05/08,5250m),ABC(15/08,5820m),C1(20/08,6250m),C2(20/09,6850m),
C3(06/10,7315m),xxx(06/10,7315m)

From C1 traversed by ski to base of arrete, dump made there and camp called C1.8 established on shelf by Rheinberger and Bruce at 22,250 ft with fixed rope to it - tent at C1.8, too dangerous for permanent camp. True C2 (slightly lower than C1.8) in a crevasse. Until now early Sept unsettled weather with frequent snowfall. Night that C2 was established severe avalanche down arrete went over C2 (taking a bit of equipment) and C1.8 completely taken away. Huge slab avalanche buried 2 members in snow cave of C3 but were dug out. This caused complete change of plans because of avalanche danger from constant avalanche activity.

Abandoned route and went for N Face left of Great C Couloir. To 20 Sept made new C2 high in North Cwm at 22,500 ft and C3 at 23,750 ft on N Face occupied about 22 Sept by Farmer, Bruce, Andrews and Van Noorden. Weather again bad and Andrews developing edema, set off an avalanche in descent while Bruce infected liver. Andrews severe frostbite and evacuated to NZ. Had now lost 5 tents and 5 sleeping bags and 2 members at this time and Allen bad tooth. Doctor busy. 2 more decided to leave, Brooks bad stomach = 7 left, and then 2 more left, so by Oct 6 only 5 willing and able to have another go and yaks due Oct 12.

On 6 Oct climbed face left of previous route to 24,000 ft where put 2 tents - bad weather meant 3 nights there in high winds. 9 Oct traversed left to N Ridge and down to N Col where met Japanese N Col route. Descended from Col into East Rongbuk Glacier to Japanese C3 where spent night of 9 Oct. On 10th on down to BC. Reinberger, Farmer, Norman, Anderson and Van Noorden were these remaining 5 climbers. Left BC 12 Oct and back to Lhasa and on eastward.

Maximum altitudes:
Route 1 - 23,750 ft crest of W Ridge above C3 on top of shoulder triggered
huge slab avalanche on about 10 Sept
Route 2 - 24,000 ft by members who had established C3 on about 23 Sept
Route 3 - 24,000 ft- 6 Oct

Had small supply of oxygen (7 cylinders) for possible summit bid that never got higher than C1.

14 members: Austin Brooks, leader; Bruce Farmers, deputy leader
Michael Rheinberger and Peter Allen, Australians
Dick Price, doctor
Stephen Bruce, Hugh Van Noorden, Graeme Dingle, Mike Andrews, Michael Perry, Warwick Anderson, Rob Blackbourne, Ross Cullen and Shaun Norman


Gabites (NZ Ama Dablam) - 12 Nov 85

W Ridge: got to top of shoulder and 3 camps avalanched. Mike Perry and Warick Anderson were digging snow cave and got buried - mid-to-late Sept.

N Face to N Col and Australian route. Reached C3 about 23,000 ft. Mike Andrews got sick and avalanche conditions led them to give this up but went on up to Col and thence to N Ridge. Got to 24,000 ft, ran out of time and energy and bad snow conditions and abandoned entire climb 8 Oct.


US visitor to NZ Everest BC - 3 Oct 85

NZ Everest were avalanched off W Shoulder sometime between 5 and 10 Sept. No one injured but 2 members had to be dug out. Then shifted route to N Face east of of Hornbein Couloir and planned summit bid for about 26 Sept.


New Zealand Everest, Autumn 1985

Graeme Dingle
Dick Price
Shaun Norman
Total 12 climbers and 1 BC mgr
Left NZ late July
By early Sept were at C2 on West Shoulder
Route up Hornbein from West Shoulder
Took oxygen with them to China and "masses of fixed rope"


Shambu Tamang, Spanish-Nepal Everest North Col-North Face exped - 28 Sept 85

NZ Everest expedition was attempting West Shoulder from North while Tamang's team were climbing - were an autumn expedition.