원정 개요

Accidents:
Arnaud Saulnier died at BC apparently due to heart failure.
Gueorguievsky while snow boarding down from C3 to C2, fell into crevass about 6m
deep hurt his ribs - probably liver. He was taken out of crevass by Sherpas.
Loizeau got frostbite of four fingers on left hand and thumb of right hand;
chances of recovery are good. He was evacuated to KTM on May 25 by helicopter
from BC.
Blanc fell down at 7300m Lhotse Face, broke left arm which is plastered.
Two Sherpas: One got stomach infection, another fell in icefall and broke spinal
bone; both evacuated at beginning of expedition around April 20.

Summit bid: Berhault, Loizeau, Mugnier, Lhakpa Nuru, Nawang Karsang and Ang Pemba left C4 at the midnight of 22nd. Berhault summited at 06:30 hours, stayed 10 minutes, at C4 at 10:00 hours, then down to C2 and stayed there. Saw before him on summit maybe two Sherpas. Loizeau summited at 09:40 hours, stayed 5 minutes with two Sherpas Nawang and Ang Pemba, then descended to C4 at about 16:00 hrs and slept there. Mugnier summited at 11:40 hours, stayed 10 minutes with Lhakpa, then reached South Col at 16:00 hours and slept there. Next day all members and Sherpas to BC about 22:00 hours.

Other climbers:
Asselin left eye frostbite due to storm on the night of 20th South Col.
Blanchi reached up to 8300m on 20th, then descended due to storm.
Blanc-Vial up to 8100m on the night of 20th down to C4; snowboarding from C3
to C1 on 21st.
Cuvelier up to yellow band on 20th, then went down due to weather.
D'Abubarede up to 8300m on 20th, down to C4 due to storm.
Docros BC only.
Gabarrou up to 8400m without oxygen the night of 22, lost crampon, down to C4
and gave up.
Gallet exhausted up to C3.
Garrigues up to C3.
Gueorguievsky (see accident report above).
Joncquiert-Latarjet up to 8400m on 21st night, very cold, down to C4.
Lemennicer up to C3, back to BC.
Lequertier up to Hillary Step on 21st, oxygen ran out, down to C4; skied from
South Col to C1 on 22nd.
Lucazeau up to South Col, went down to lower camp on 20th due to high wind.
Pollini up to C3.
Thiney up to C2.
Trimeri up to C3.
Vallenchant pulmonary edema, evacuated by helicopter after 5/6 days later, down
from C3 to C1 on 21st.
Van Waes up to yellow band on 20th; skied down from C3 to C1 on 21st.

Most of Expedition members returned to KTM on May 28th and will leave on 30th.

Sherpa summiters:
Pemba Dorje (Junje) Pemba, 17/4/2027, Kharikhola, 1st 8000er
Lhakpa Nuru, 10/2/2035, Namche, 1st 8000er
Nawang Karsang, 8/4/2026, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
Pemba Nuru, 3/2/73, Pare, Thami, Lhotse 15/5/00


Ang Chhiring (Nepal journalist summiter) to Jeevan Shrestha - 4 July 2004

Pemba Nuru went to top on 22 May alone after French member he had been with turned back; he arrived on top 15-20 minutes, before Ang Chhiring and took pictures of him when got there; they descended mountain together.